The showcase, Nicolas Ghesquière’s 2nd resort collection for Louis Vuitton, was held at the Bob and Dolores Hope Estate in Palm Springs.
“I want to talk to many types of women, not one icon, and every season I try to express that as strongly as possible,” so stated Nicolas Ghesquière moments after the finale of his second cruise show. He was flanked by his favourite Louis Vuitton women – Catherine Deneuve, Michelle Williams, Charlotte Gainsbourg and Alicia Vikander – the wide, futuristic concrete curves of Bop Hope’s Palm Springs home framing the desert behind.
Ghesquière doesn’t define the mood in fashion so much as set it. It is him we have to thank for the broad sweep of retro mania that has transformed our wardrobes and filled the high street with Seventies suede miniskirts. So his girls came out with leather hiking boots and white high-top slim-line sneakers (immediately rushing straight to the top of our luxury trainer list, just when we thought we had kicked that habit) matched with a much more fluid silhouette – long skirts in silk, with leather back packs and punchy short bomber jackets.
“A different attitude, effortless and cool, and with flat shoes and long skirts and a certain lightness of the fabrics.” References came at us from everywhere – there were western cowboy belts but worn like leather harnesses, Navajo Indian detailing on beaded tops, and fierce leather dresses with caped shoulders – desert warriors or a Game of Thrones queen… It was up to us to decide, everything was muddied and made beautiful, each piece shaped by his fine-tuned aesthetic and delivered with the exquisite craft of Louis Vuitton.
There were also futuristic details in the heavily embellished knitwear, tightly zipped leather jackets and crocodile coats in silver with stiff, hard collars.